On the Fly

A lifelong angler shares the irresistible allure of fishing on Canada's prairies.

Story and photos by David Smallwood

The Great Northern Pike alias "the waterwolf"

The early-morning air is scented with pine, and the distant call of loons is muted by mist suspended over the water. I'm standing, fly rod in hand, on the shore of a Saskatchewan Lake - one of the thousands of lakes and rivers that dot the rugged Precambrian Shield of the northern prairies - and my view is framed by a horizon of black spruce and jack pine against a gradually brightening sky. My line cuts through the air and skips over the surface of the water, and I think again that mornings such as these are pure magic.

My father introduced me to the art and science of fly-fishing when I was 12 years old. As we stood at the water's edge with our gear, he placed his hand on top of mine, imposing a casting motion a casting motion as he explained the principles. "Stop at 2 o'clock...stop at 10 o'clock," he counseled, "and smoothly accelerate." That first cast seems a lifetime ago, but it served as my entry into a beloved and storied pastime that draws devotees from every walk of life. That lesson also developed into a lifelong passion, one that I share with growing numbers across the country.

A float tube is a wonderfull addition to a fly fisherman's bag of tricks...and a photographer's as well!

First, the science. Your goal as a fly fisher is to entice your quarry - the fish - with a life-like fly that imitates its real food in colour, shape and movement, be it a nymph, fly, or bug. You don't have to be an entomologist to fly-fish, but at least part of your success will depend on your ability to match the fly to the current meal of choice for the fish you want to catch. The ephemeral mayfly, for instance, is a desired dinner in all its life stages: nymph, dun, and, finally, spinner. The fly fisher must determine which life-cycle stage the mayfly is in, and then choose the fly that best imitates it. Solving this angling puzzle is a fundamental step to your success. How much or how little science you bring to the ongoing challenge is up to you.

Northern Saskatchewan's wilderness rivers offer some of the
finest fly fishing in the world.

Trout and salmon are coveted fly-fishing species in Canada. The sport made a quantum leap, however, when fly fishers reasoned that larger species, such as the carnivorous pike and walleye, could be caught with the right kind of lure. The change was a boon for the prairies where waters are legendary for northern pike that exceeded 120 centimetres in length and swallow meals longer than 30 centimetres. Made from modern synthetics and hollow hair, flies called streamers were designed to simulate the small fish these game fish crave. A surface strike by a pike - no matter what the size - is a display of sheer savagery that lends credence to its nickname: water wolf.

Second, the art, for casting a fly is nothing less than a graceful ballet of line and fly. As fly-fishing expert Jeannot Ruel writes: "All the life and natural behaviour that the fish perceives have been breathed into [the fly] by the artist who holds the rod." In other words, while you can buy a fly for every occasion and a rod, reel and line to suit your needs, the elegance and accuracy with which to use them are critical.

Today, newcomers to the sport who lack mentors to pass on revered traditions and tips will find an abundance of information about fly-fishing in books, on the Internet and in schools. There are fly-casting and fly-tying workshops and classes designed specifically for men or women as some exclusively for children. For all, the basic equipment is the same: a fly rod, specifically designed flyline monofilament leader material and flies (imitations of various aquatic insects, minnows and other food items). Additional accessories abound, but as I was taught in my neophyte years, a good fly fisher with poor equipment will always out fish a poor fly fisher with excellent equipment.

The arctic grayling aesthetics and acrobatics all rolled into one.

Practice makes perfect in all things, and fly-rod casting is no exception.

Over the years, I've happily indulged my fly-fishing habit whenever I can, through guided and unguided trips, as part of a group on lodge-based outings and on my own. It's impossible to say which is more pleasurable - each has served its purpose admirably. Waterside on early mornings, though, I often consider whether it's really the quarry I'm seeking. It seems far more likely that I'm finding yet another opportunity to journey to the fish's surroundings to explore my own connection with the fluid world of nature.

Keep or Release

The jury is out on the ethics of catch-and-release vs. catch-and-keep fishing.

Animal-rights groups and many environmentalists believe that fishing is cruel if you don't intend to eat your catch and that even the best catch-and-release methods cause trauma and increase the mortality rate of the fish.

If you pursue this option, however, plan well ahead. Use single barbless hooks and a steady-pressure retrieval technique to reduce trauma to the fish. Do not squeeze the fish or handle its gills during the release, and employ needle-nose pliers to remove the hook, all the while keeping the fish submerged in the water. Avoid netting when possible.

The cast

Always abide by provincial regulations, which will require a sport-fishing licence, and respect catch limits. Fresh fish taste delicious and smaller fish taste better than big ones. Dispatch fish humanely and store on ice. Never squander your catch.

Top Spots on the Prairies

Knee Lake (Manitoba)

Approximately 650 kilometres by air northeast of Winnipeg, 80-kilometre-long Knee Lake is actually a widening of the Hayes River system. With its islands, bays, reefs and weedbeds, it is an excellent location for pike, walleye, sea-run brook trout and native brook trout. The resort is the only establishment on the lake, and its guides are well versed in fly-fishing.

Toll-free: 1-800-563-7151
Telephone: (204) 940-6300
Website: www.kneelake.mb.ca

Red River (Manitoba)

Lockport, on Winnipeg's Red River, is the location of one of the best catfish fisheries in the world. Best of all, it's free. As with all fly-fishing, the secret to success is in imitating the channel catfish's food source. The Manitoba Fly Fishers Association provides a wealth of information for the Red River and the entire region.

Website: www.mffa.org

Narrow Hills Provincial Park (Saskatchewan)

Situated in the north-central part of the province, Narrow Hills boasts 25 lakes (and 30 more within an hour's drive) and the greatest variety of fish species in Saskatchewan.
It's also the place for splake. Catpsites and cabin accommodations are available.

Telephone: (306) 426-2622
Website: www.se.gov.sk.ca/saskparks

Brunansky's Foster Lake Lodge (Saskatchewan)

A lodge-based, guided fishing trip has many advantages and is an excellent way to introduce a family to the joys of angling.

Located 160 kilometres by air north of La Ronge, Foster Lake offers some of the finest pike fly-fishing I have ever experienced, with shallow pike flats that stretch for miles.
Accommodation includes main lodge and cabins, and complete housekeeping services are provided.

Toll-free: 1-888-233-5489
Website: www.flyinfishing.ca

Bow River (Alberta)

The Bow River flows out of the Rocky Mountains, and by the time it reaches the outskirts of Calgary, it is considered one of the finest blue-ribbon trout rivers in the world. My father and I have fished it alone, but guide services abound. Calgary's Hook and Hackle Club is a good place to look for information.

Website: hookandhackleclub.tripod.com/index.html