The Toronto Islands
We are a country intrigued by islands. True, we have more freshwater than anyone else, but our penchant for calling small islands home is undeniable. A perfect example is an archipelago just a 10 minute ferry ride from the bottom of Bay Street in downtown Toronto. They are called the Toronto Islands.
The islands (all 15 of them) cover roughly 800 acres with nearby Toronto Island airport taking up nearly 25% of it. Centre Island is the largest and is shaped like a long bent arm, protecting the remaining islands like an older brother. The actual residential community exists on only two of the islands, Ward's and Alquonquin and most of the residents live in older, modest homes built and renovated to reflect their individuality and personal tastes. What then is the attraction to a place where the majority of residents have lived for more than 20 years, where homeowners can only pass on their homes to close relatives (there's a waiting list to purchase homes) and despite paying the same mill rate as mainland Torontonians, receive far fewer services? Linda Rosenbaum has lived on Alquonquin Island for 33 years and gave me her reasons. "Although ferry schedules control your life, and you have to take a the ferry just to go grocery shopping," she said laughing, "it's a small price to pay for the privilege of living in this place. I love the people, the pace and the peace of the Toronto Islands. That's why I stay."
Back in the late 1800s Hanlan's Point, on the southeast part of Centre Island, experienced aggressive construction that quickly earned it the name Coney Island of Canada. It was also here that in 1894, the City of Toronto had a clothing-optional beach for naturists whom preferred to bath au nature. The 10,000 seat stadium on Hanlan's Point was also where Babe Ruth hit his first professional home run (1914) as a player for the Providence Grays. And not far away the Gibraltar Lighthouse, Toronto's first lighthouse still stands...and supposedly haunted.
On January 2, 1815 the first lighthouse keeper, J.P. Rademuller disappeared and years later a skeleton was found and thought to be his. The mystery was never solved, no evidence ever surfaced, nor suspects found. Perhaps the ghost of Gibraltar Point could shed some light on it!
Although the Depression took its toll, the essence of the islands didn't change dramtically. The windswept beaches remained along with the wild roses and forget-me-nots, the foxgloves and wild grasses. And today the residents of the Toronto Islands see themselves as the year-round custodians of the Island community gardens, a popular destination for tourists, and take great pride in their own as they open them up to visiting tourists as part of an Island Garden Tour held every even year with the next one in 2006 (1-416-537-5006).
It was back in the spring of 1964 that Peter Gzowski, host of CBC's Morningside, first came to Ward's Island, fell in love with island life and made his home here. Summers were busy with men and women baseball leagues, volleyball and, of course, sailing.
With a "we against the world" mentality coupled with claiming a piece of real estate and then rallying the troops to protect it seems to be indicative to island living, or perhaps just easy prey for corporations and governments if they don't. The Toronto Islands residents are no different The City of Toronto began a scorched earth policy back in the 50s destroying or burning over 300 historic buildings and reducing the population from a peak of 5,000 to roughly 700. With the remaining 252 homes confined to Ward's and Alquonquin Islands, and faced with eminent eviction, a 25- year fight ensued, led by Gzowski and others. In the end the Islanders won.
Today Islanders live within a park setting sharing with it with over 1,225,000 tourists from around the world. So what makes people go to these lengths to live a lifestyle that costs a family of 4 over $3,500 each years in ferry fees. It's for the same reason that the vast majority are year-round residents of the island. Because this is the lifestyle the islanders choose.
If You Go:
To get to the Toronto Islands (1-416-203-0405): Go to the ferry building (1-416-392-8193) at the foot of Bat Street in downtown Toronto. There are island maps at the ferry docks. A trackless train is available to get around the island, and it is also very bike and skate friendly.
Still craving more island info? Check out these two other Canadian Islands.
Île d'Orléans
Just a 15-minute drive from Quebec City and located in the St. Lawrence Seaway, Île d'Orléans is one of the oldest settlements in Quebec and home to over 7,000 islanders. More than an island, it was named a national historic district in 1970 and the inhabitants have strived to protect and preserve their colorful past by having over 600 buildings classified as great heritage value. The six villages are connected by Chemin Royal, the main road the surrounds the island and is connected to the mainland by Pont de I'lle. Self-guided tours are available.
For more info: Tourism de Quebec. 1-418-522-3511
The Gulf Islands
B.C.'s Gulf Islands have been the benchmark for island living for decades. Salt Spring and Pender to the south and Denman and Quadra to the north are havens for full-time residents and visitors alike searching for that laid-back lifestyle. Biking, hiking, fishing, whale-watching and sailing are just a few of the activities and a connecting ferry system allows excellent mobility throughout the large group of islands that thrive on their diversity! Salt Spring (pop.10,000) is renowned for its arts community and many galleries while Saturna, the most southern of the Gulf Islands (pop.326) offers a more reclusive lifestyle.
For more info: Tourism Vancouver Island, Tel: (1-250-754-3500)
